Beyul: a sacred hidden valley of the Himalaya
Wow, I sit here in Kathmandu after such an amazing adventure, I hardly know where to start. The trip for us had three very distinct portions all of them working together to form a perfect journey. One was the ice-climbing, which I will expound on in this post. Secondly was an amazing chance to live independently amongst a well-preserved Sherpa community and culture. And lastly of course, the opportunity to ascend a major unclimbed Himalayan peak in perfect alpine style.
Let's start with the ice climbing...
In short, we for ourselves discovered and started to develop what we feel might well be one of Asia's premier ice-climbing venues. With over 30 waterfall routes and the possibility of over 50 under ideal conditions, all within a 2-hour hike of the Sherpa village of Beding, the concentration of quality ice is phenomenal. And with such ease of access I would venture to say that this could become a very popular ice-climbing destination. Once in the Rolwaling - a mere four day hike - you can base camp out of Beding and climb as much as you want without the worries and hassles of driving to and from the climbs ever day. Most of the climbs are easy day trips and the opportunities for deeper explorations are nearly endless. All this, with the opportunity to also bag a couple peaks during a climbing trip, seem to make a very appealing excursion.
We were able to accomplish 13 climbs, from WI 3 to WI 6 of which at least 11 or 12 of them were very likely first ascents. Of course, I would very much like to hear of others experiences in the valley if they exist.
As a precursor to our explorations, David and I visited the Rolwaling during our
2008 Kang Nachugo climb. While leaving the valley in late October it caught our eye that many of the beautiful waterfalls that we had seen were starting to freeze. And in many places, there were smears and drips starting to form in places we hadn't expected. So we formulated a wild idea that at some point in the future, we should revisit here in the winter.
This winter was a bit dry and in many places where winter snow melt would normally feed the waterfalls, the waterfalls had to rely on previous ground water and glacier melt. According to the locals, this year was about average in terms of quantity of ice. Indeed we heard stories of some major waterfalls that we could only dream of climbing and that were now entire pitches from touching down, being fully formed. On the flip-side, we heard stories of years going by with very little ice what-so-ever. So in the end we felt very lucky to have climbed what we did, and can just comprehend the massive potential of a really good year.
Before I continue, I want to take this opportunity to thank our good friend and gracious host Mr. Norbu Sherpa, who gave over his home in Beding to us for the the duration of the climbing and expedition. Not only did he allow us to live in his home, he took great care to make sure that our trip was the best it could be, all without the expectation of payment. As well we would like to thank Norbu's daughter Dawa Yangzum Sherpa who not only helped organize this incredible arrangement, but also was able to join us for first ascents on several of her local frozen waterfalls.
That said, here's what we found:
We arrived in Beding on February 9th to the first big snow storm of the winter season. Before this storm, all of the hills were completely dry, and this as well as a number of storms throughout our trip kept the snow permanently on the south (shaded) side of the valley for the duration of the trip.
Arriving at the Beding Gompa: (Photo: JP)
A snowy Beding. Our first mission was a warm up on Pagaga (Grandfather) Falls, a nice 4-pitch WI 4 directly above the village. Pagaga can be seen in the cleft directly behind and above the town. (Photo: JP)
Heading up on the first day of ice climbing. Pagaga falls is way up and right. One of our favorite climbs, Beyul, is the slot above and left. (Photo: JP)
Yangzum following on Pagaga Falls: (Photo: JP)
David leading some of the upper ice: (Photo: JP)
Our next task was to tackle an incredible slot just a 5-minute walk from Beding that had ice pouring out the bottom. Having no idea what we would find, we were absolutely taken aback when it turned out to be an upwards canyoning adventure over 700 meters in length. Mostly consisting of easy WI 2 and 3 steps, an occasionally steeper section and a nearly enclosed canyon environment provided some of the funnest and most scenic climbing of the trip.
Beyul (700+ meters, WI 4) climbs the deep slot above the initial waterfall, then continues up a gash way up into the upper basin. (Photo: JP)
The start of Beyul: (Photo: JP)
David leading in the amazing Beyul slot: (Photo: JP)
Yangzum Sherpa climbing in Beyul: (Photo: JP)
David leading in Beyul: (Photos: JP)
About half way up, the climb split into two canyons above. The right looked steep and better but was pouring with water, so we took the easier left line, which after two steeper pitches, led to another 400 meters or so of rambling ice with WI 3 steps. (Photo: JP)
Beyul climbs a hidden deep gorge on the left (below), while the upper pitches can just be seen as the thin white line in the dark cleft near the center of the picture. In the upper basin, there may be as many as 50 or more WI 2 and WI 3 steps spread across the basin that meander their way up beneath Chekigo's southwestern glacier. Several more unformed and partially formed climbs rimmed the lower canyon, speaking to great potential in a good season. (Photo: JP)
A grouping of 3 climbs caught our eye across the valley. We dubbed the climbs the Cousin-Brothers. A wide-angle overview of the Cousin-Brothers. From left to right: WI 4, WI 5, WI 3, and WI 2 (?). We climbed all but the easier far right. (Photo: JP)
What the terrain looks like above much of the ice-climbing. Nearly all of this snow fell while we were there. The Cousin-Brothers are in the lower center of the picture. (Photo: JP)
David leading the right Cousin-Brother, a cool and scenic 1-pitch WI 3, with Gauri Shankar in the distance. (Photo: JP)
Looking up at the middle Cousin-Brother, an excellent 2-pitch, WI5. Near the top a clear blue water hose can be seen, which was very typical of many climbs in the region. For some reason (and very much positive for ice climbing), the water often ran under the climbs rather than over them. (Photo: JP)
Joe leading the middle Cousin-Brother: (Photo: DG)
David leading the left Cousin-Brother, a 3-pitch WI4. (Photos: JP)
Dawa Yangzum following on the left Cousin-Brother: (Photo: JP)
The Cousin-Brothers from across the valley: (Photo: JP)
One of the prize areas of the Rolwaling, the climbs across from the village of Nemari (20-minutes below Beding) are world-class. At least a dozen separate flows exist ranging form WI 3 to WI 6 or harder with great potential for mixed lines. The longest climbs are upwards of 5 pitches in length. We climbed the obvious left flow, and the left side of the right flow. As it turns out, these climbs had been attempted before but apparently unsuccessfully. The climbs are in full view of the small village of Nemari, and when we were climbing the left falls, the locals apparently made a betting pool on whether we would succeed. Dawa Yangzum (not joining us for this ascent) was the only one to bet for us, and she walked away that day with a handsome handful of Rupees! (Photo: JP)
A zoom shot of the cruxes of Nemari Left: (Photo: JP)
Another shot showing the Nemari area climbs. These climbs are about 1.5 hours total approach from Beding. (Photo: JP)
David starting the first pitch of the ultra-classic Nemari Left (4-pitches, WI 5+): (Photo: JP)
David starting up the second crux pitch (pitch 3) of Nemari Left: (Photo: JP)
David (in the lower right-hand corner) leading the first pitch of Nemari Right, another classic 5-pitch WI 5. (Photo: JP)
David and Yangzum (inside a cave) at a hanging belay on Nemari Right. (Photo: JP)
Many of the climbs were across the Dud Koshi (Milk River) as the locals called it, necessitating some easy and some more tricky river crossings. Either there's a bridge, you build a bridge, or you just go for it! (Photos: JP)
Next stop was the NMIA Training Wall, a completely massive amount of ice in the upper canyon highly visible throughout the valley. Above the small lower falls, the steeper part of the wall is a full 120-meters tall, with another pitch of lower angle ice above making a possible 4-pitch climb. At least the lower part of this wall has been used by the Nepal Mountaineering Instructors Association for training courses. It is unclear if the wall had been ascended before to its apex. There are at least four distinct routes. We climbed the obvious left (WI 4) and obvious right side (WI 5) routes, while the center area was quite wet. (Photo: JP)
David leading on NMIA Training Wall Right-side. (Photo: JP)
Joe leading the first pitch of NMIA Training Wall Left. (Photo: DG)
Rappelling from the NMIA Training Wall: (Photo: JP)
The real prizes of the upper valley were a breathtaking 2-pitch WI6 on the left. And on the right, a route that upon close inspection was a pillar with only .5 meters of connection at the base and completely broken and nearly detached at the top. We decided to sneak that route on the left, up a thin ramp system, to make a great 2-pitch WI 4. (Photo: JP)
David leading the first pitch of what we nicknamed the left route: Broken Thumb. While I was leading the overhanging crux second pitch, a piece of ice came down and hit David in the hand while belaying, nearly breaking, well, his thumb! (Photo: JP)
David sneaking past the crux hanging pillars on the right hand route. (Photo: JP)
Joe leading the 2nd pitch of the yet to be named right hand climb. (Photo: DG)
Our next mission involved a hidden gully next to the NMIA Training Wall that we dubbed the Saṃsāra Gully. Saṃsāra is a Buddhist term that can indicate the suffering that occurs while traveling through the cycles of life and rebirth.
Below is the NMIA Training Wall and
Saṃsāra Gully with many hard technical ice and mixed climbs awaiting a first ascent. In a bigger year, this place would be off-the-hook. For reference (there is some foreshortening going on here), the 2nd climb from the right is the one we attempted and it is at least a full 2-pitches, if not more. (Photo: JP)
Inside the Samsara Gully; although the left climb didn't touch down, it looked too enticing to pass up. Upon our attempt I took an 8-meter fall onto a 00-C3 Camalot on terrain that felt to be around M7 (until I fell!). After a good shake-up, we abandoned our attempt. (Photo: JP)
Nearing my highpoint: (Photo: DG)
Shortly after my fall, reeling from the pain in my hands from the cold and holding on for dear life: (Photo: DG)
Another more distant zoomed view. The climb on the right also looks like a really cool mixed project for somebody: (Photo: JP)
Another view of the massive NMIA Training Wall in the afternoon sun: (Photo: JP)
We did a few more climbs to wrap up our journey. Heading up for another cool 2-pitch WI 4: (Photos: JP)
This swath (bigger than it looks) was a cool 3-pitch WI3, with harder variations available on the left side. (Photo: JP)
One last upper view of the edge of the NMIA Training Wall,
Saṃsāra Gully, and Broken Thumb area. (Photo: JP)
In addition to the many areas we climbed in, there were several more in the Rolwaling that we didn't have time to touch or explore, like this hidden valley that we discovered on our hike out. The potential is hard to believe and even when heading up valley to climb our peak, we noticed even more waterfalls. (Photo: JP)
We wrapped up the climbing by the end of February. Most of the climbs were still hanging in there, but we saw some large chunks of ice starting to come down. The climbs are probably fully formed by early December and this month and January might provide the fullest conditions although with most of the climbs located between 3,400 and 4,200 meters, it can get mighty cold. Our February temps were near perfect, with day time highs between -5 C and freezing and lows dipping to -10 to -12 C.
If you'd like information on organizing a trip here, please contact me. The locals are very keen on having winter-time tourism come into their valley!
Okay, stay tuned for more pictures from our climb of Takargo!
